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পানাম নগর ভ্রমন - আপডেট বার্তা24
January 30, 2023, 4:25 am
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পানাম নগর ভ্রমন

  • আপডেট : Monday, December 28, 2020
  • 31058 বার সংবাদটি পড়া হয়েছে

স্থাপত্যের দিক দিয়ে ভারতবর্ষের মত বৈচিত্র্যময় দেশ গোটা পৃথিবীতে খুব কমই আছে। হরপ্পা- মহেঞ্জোদারো থেকে যাত্রা শুরু করে আজকের বোম্বে- কলকাতা- দিল্লি – চেন্নাই, বিভিন্ন যুগে, বিভিন্ন অবলম্বন কে আঁকড়ে ধরে গড়ে উঠেছে মানুষের বসতি। আর কালের নিয়মে সেই বসতিগুলো ধীরে ধীরে রূপান্তরিত হয়েছে শহরে। যুগের সাথে তাল মিলিয়ে কিছু শহর বাঁচিয়ে রেখেছে নিজের অস্তিত্বকে, আর কিছু হারিয়ে গেছে সময়ের অতলে। আমাদের বাংলাও এর ব্যাতিক্রম নয়। আসুন আজ আপনাদের সাথে পরিচয় করিয়ে দিই বাংলার এক প্রাচীন অবলুপ্ত শহরের সাথে, যার খ্যাতি একসময় সারা বিশ্বে ছড়িয়ে পড়েছিল।

পানাম-নগর ঢাকা থেকে মাত্র ৩০ কিলমিটার দূরে নারায়ণগঞ্জ জেলার সোনারগাঁও অঞ্চলে গড়ে ওঠা এক ঐতিহাসিক শহর। ‘পানাম’ একটা ফারসি শব্দ, যার অর্থ  আশ্রয়স্থল। চোদ্দ শতকের শুরু থেকেই সোনারগাঁও অবিচ্ছিন্ন বাংলার অন্যতম প্রধান বানিজ্যস্থল হয়ে ওঠে।এই সময়েই অঞ্চলের প্রধান বন্দর-নগরী হিসাবে পানামের আত্মপ্রকাশ।

বাংলার মসলিন এর কাপড় যে জগৎবিখ্যাত ছিল, তা বলার অপেক্ষা রাখে না এবং ঐতিহাসিকদের মতে, এই সোনারগাঁও ছিল মসলিনের সবচেয়ে বড় বাজার। পনেরো শতকে বাংলার সম্রাট ঈশা খাঁ সোনারগাঁওকে তাঁর সাম্রাজ্যের রাজধানী হিসাবে স্বীকৃতি দিলে শহর হিসাবে পানাম পরিপূর্ণতা পায়। তবে এই নগরী তার বিস্তৃতির শেষ সীমায় পৌছায় মুঘল আমলে। শের  সাহের সরক-ই-আজমের (যাকে আজ আমরা গ্র্যান্ড ট্যাঙ্ক রোড বলে চিনি) একেবারে পূর্বপ্রান্ত ছিল এই সোনারগাঁও। প্রায় আড়াই হাজার বছর ধরে এই অঞ্চল ছিল বাংলার সমস্ত বাণিজ্যের কেন্দ্রস্থল। সতেরো শতকের শুরুর দিকে ঢাকা কে বাংলার রাজধানী করা হলে, ধীরে ধীরে সোনারগাঁও তার জৌলুশ হারাতে থাকে এবং চারিদিকে পরিবেষ্টিত ব্রহ্মপুত্র, শিতলাখ্যা নদীর প্রচণ্ড বন্যায় ক্রমে জনবসতিশূন্য হয়ে পড়ে।

উনবিংশ শতাব্দীর শেষভাগে ইংরেজ শাসনকালে পানাম তার হারানো গৌরব ফিরে পায়। ততদিনে মসলিনের কাপড় বাংলা থেকে প্রায় অবলুপ্ত হয়ে গেছে। তবুও উৎকৃষ্ট কটনের পোশাক এবং বিভিন্ন ইংরেজ সামগ্রী কে কেন্দ্র করে আবার সেজে ওঠে এই বাণিজ্য-নগরী। বলাই বাহুল্য, এই সময় শহরটা নতুন ভাবে নির্মিত হয়েছে হিন্দু বনিক ও ব্যাবসায়ীদের হাতে। ‘World monuments fund’ এই পানাম শহরকে বিশ্বের ১০০ টি ধ্বংস হয়ে যাওয়া শহরের তালিকায় স্থান দিয়েছে।

ব্রহ্মপুত্র, শিতলাখ্যা, মেঘনা নদী পরিবেষ্টিত পানাম নগরী বর্ষাকালে ছিল বেশ দুর্গম। তাছাড়া মেনিখালি নামে একটি ছোট খরস্রোতা নদী বয়ে গেছে এই অঞ্চলের মধ্যে দিয়ে, যা জায়গায় জায়গায় পরিখা ও খালের সৃষ্টি করেছে। ঐতিহাসিক জেমস টেলর তাঁর “A Sketch of the Topography and Statistics of Dacca” বইতে পানাম-নগর কে সোনারগাঁও এর প্রাচীন, বিলাসবহুল ও দুর্ভেদ্য নগরী হিসেবে বর্ণনা করেছেন।

মূলত বানিজ্য-নগরি হিসাবে খ্যাত পানাম শহর স্থাপত্যেরও এক উৎকৃষ্ট নিদর্শন। সুলতানি, মুঘল এবং ঔপনিবেশিক স্থাপত্যরীতির এক অদ্ভুত সংমিশ্রন ছিল এই পানাম-নগর। ঐতিহাসিক সূত্রে জানা যায়, পানামে প্রায় ৯০ টা পরিবারের বসবাস ছিল, যার মধ্যে তাদের ৫২ টা বাড়িই স্থাপত্যের বিচারে বিশেষ উল্লেখযোগ্য।  যদিও এখন আর মাত্র ৪০ টা বাড়িই অবশিষ্ট রয়েছে।

বেশিরভাগ বাড়িগুলোই দোতলা হলেও, একতলা থেকে শুরু করে তিনতলা, সমস্ত রকম বাড়িই দেখতে পাওয়া যায়। অধিকাংশ বাড়িই ছিল অন্তর্মুখী। ৬ মিটার চওড়া পানাম সড়কের দুপাশে বড়–ছোট বাড়িগুলি পাশাপাশি বিন্যস্ত ছিল। প্রায় প্রতিটি বাড়ির পিছনের দিকে বড় গাছ পরিবেষ্টিত বাগান ও পাতকুয়া ছিল। বাড়িগুলির নিজেদের মধ্যে দূরত্ব বলতে কিছুই ছিল না, কিছু কিছু বাড়ি তো একই দেওয়ালের উপরে গড়ে ওঠা। বসতির এই ধরনের বিন্যাসকে ‘স্ট্রিট ফ্রন্ট’ বিন্যাস বলা হয়। ঐতিহাসিকদের মতে, বাড়িগুলির এই ধরনের বিন্যাসের প্রধান কারন ছিল বানিজ্যিক যোগাযোগ সাধন। অবাক করার মত বিষয় হল, সেই সময় গড়ে ওঠা পৃথিবীর প্রায় সমস্ত বানিজ্য-নগরির বিন্যাস ছিল কমবেশি একইরকম।

শুধু তাই নয়, আয়তন, বিন্যাস কৌশল ও অলঙ্করনের দিক থেকেও বাড়িগুলোর মধ্যে রকমফের রয়েছে অনেক। বেশিরভাগ বাড়িই আয়তকার এবং উত্তর-দক্ষিণে বিস্তৃত। ৫ থেকে শুরু করে ১৫ মিটার দীর্ঘ বাড়ির নিদর্শনও মেলে এই শহরে। কিছু কিছু বাড়ির মধ্যস্থলে ছিল বড় আকাশখোলা দালান । ছোট বাড়িগুলিতে অবশ্য এই দালানগুলো দেখা যায় না। বাড়ির মধ্যে ঘরগুলি পাশাপাশি বিন্যস্ত ছিল, যেগুলি মূলত করিডর দিয়ে জোড়া থাকত।

বিন্যাসরীতি অনুযায়ী পানাম নগরের বাড়ি গুলি কে তিনভাগে ভাগ করা যায়:
১) দ্বিতল হল বিশিষ্ট বাড়ি
২) আকাশখোলা দালানবাড়ি
৩) কেন্দ্রস্থল বর্জিত ছোট বাড়ি

কেন্দ্রস্থলের বড় হল বা দালান যে বাংলার প্রাচীন স্থাপত্য রীতি থেকে অনুপ্রাণিত, তা আর বলার অপেক্ষা রাখে না। এই হল বা দালানগুলি বারান্দা দিয়ে পরিবেষ্টিত ছিল, যা চারিদিকের ঘরগুলির মধ্যেকার করিডর হিসেবে কাজ করত, দালান গুলির চারপাশ অসাধারন কারুকার্য করা স্তম্ভ দিয়ে ঘেরা থাকত। স্তম্ভের কারুকার্যে মুঘল ও ঔপনিবেশিক প্রভাব স্পষ্ট। শহরের স্থানে স্থানে কিছু একটি মাত্র ঘর বিশিষ্ট বড় বাড়ির ধ্বংসাবশেষ মেলে, যা ঐতিহাসিকদের মতে, ছিল গুদাম বা মন্দির।

প্রতিটা বাড়ির কারুকার্য, রঙের ব্যাবহার, নির্মাণ কৌশলের দিক দিয়ে উদ্ভাবনী কুশলতায় ভরপুর। ঔপনিবেশিক এবং গ্রীক স্থাপত্য রীতির সাথে সাথে স্থানীয় কারিগরদের শিল্পদক্ষতা পানাম শহরের সৌন্দর্যকে আরও বাড়িয়ে দিয়েছিল। পোড়ামাটির তৈরি ইট দিয়ে বানানো বাড়িগুলিতে কালো পাথরের টেরাকোটার কাজ বেশ নজর কাড়ে। ঢালাই লোহা দিয়ে বানানো গেট, ভেনটিলেটর, জানলার গ্রিল ছিল এই শহরের স্থাপত্যরীতির এক  অনন্য বৈশিষ্ট্য। প্রায় প্রতিটা বাড়ির মেঝেতেই ছিল লাল, সাদা ও কালো মোজাইকের কারুকার্য। ঘরের দেওয়ালগুলোতে সেরামিক টালির নকশা এবং কাস্ট আয়রনের কাজ এতটাই নিখুঁত ছিল, যে তাকে অনায়াসেই ইউরোপের কাজের সাথে তুলনা করা চলে।  উল্লেখযোগ্য বিষয় হল, প্রায় প্রতিটি বাড়ির খিলান বা ছাদের মধ্যবর্তী স্থানে নীল-সাদা ছাপ দেখা যায়, যার কোনও ব্যাখ্যা ঐতিহাসিকরা দিতে পারেননি।

দুর্ভাগ্যবশত পানাম-নগরের এই পুনরুত্থান বেশিদিন স্থায়ী হয়নি। দেশভাগের পরবর্তী কালে বিভিন্ন সময়ে হিন্দু-মুসলিম দাঙ্গার কারনে পানাম ধীরে ধীরে জনমানবহীন হতে শুরু করে। কফিনে শেষ পেরেক পড়ে যায় ১৯৬৫ সালে ইন্দো-পাক যুদ্ধ শুরু হলে। প্রায় সমস্ত হিন্দু ব্যাবসায়ি এই সময় নিজেদের ঘরবাড়ি ছেড়ে ভারতে চলে আসে । পানাম এক পরিত্যাক্ত শহরে পরিনত হয়।

সেই শুরু, তারপর থেকে আর জেগে ওঠেনি পানাম। মূল বাসিন্দাদের অবর্তমানে বাড়িগুলো অযত্নে ক্রমশ ক্ষয়ে যেতে থাকে। সময়ের সাথে সাথে আজ বাড়িগুলোতে শ্যাওলা ধরে গেছে, স্যাঁতস্যাঁতে ও গুমোট বাড়ির দেওয়ালগুলোতে গজিয়েছে গাছপালা। জায়গায় জায়গায় ঘরের চৌকাঠ ও রেলিং খুলে পড়েছে । চুরি হয়ে যাচ্ছে কড়িকাঠ ও তক্তা। ফলে বিভিন্ন সময় বাড়িগুলির ছাদ ধ্বসে পড়ছে, ভেঙ্গে পড়েছে বাড়ির সিঁড়ি ও দেওয়াল। অনেক বাড়ির সেরামিক টালির কাজে ভাঙন ধরেছে। এমনকি, ২০০৫ সালে দুটি বাড়ি তো সম্পূর্ণরূপে ভেঙ্গে পরে।

আনন্দের খবর এই যে, বর্তমানে পানাম নগরীর ঐতিহ্যকে গুরুত্ব দিয়ে বাংলাদেশ সরকারের পক্ষ থেকে নেওয়া হয়েছে নানা পদক্ষেপ। সরকারীভাবে প্রত্নতত্ত্ব অধিদপ্তরের অধীনে নেওয়া হয়েছে ‘পানাম নগরের প্রাচীন স্থাপত্য অবকাঠামো সংস্কার সংরক্ষণ’ নামক একটি প্রকল্প। যে প্রকল্পে পানামের প্রায় চল্লিশটা বাড়ি, চারটে পুকুরঘাট ও একটা সেতুর সংরক্ষণ ও পুনর্নির্মাণের কাজ চলছে।

সোনালি অতীতের সাক্ষী পানাম নগরের বাড়িগুলি আজও নজর কাড়ে সৌন্দর্যপিপাসু মানুষদের। আজও মনে করিয়ে দেয়, বাংলার এক সোনালি অধ্যয়কে ।




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